Novice Rock Climbers’ Perception of Movement Skill Transfer from Indoor Climbing Walls to Outdoor Natural Rock Faces

Abstract

Stemming from a problem experienced by rock climbing instructors who regularly facilitate the “gym to crag” transition, this study sought to investigate novice climbers’ perceptions of movement skills transfer from indoor climbing walls to outdoor rock faces. This study sought to determine if transfer of skill exist and, if so, to what extent. A self-evaluation instrument and a pre- and post-questionnaire were used to gather both quantitative and qualitative data which was analyzed using descriptive statistics and Pearson’s r and Cohen’s d where appropriate. Providing context and reference, two professional climbing instructors evaluated videos of each climber’s performance utilizing the same evaluative instrument. While some climbing movement skill does transfer from indoor climbing walls to outdoor rock faces, transfer diminishes the more specific the application learned skills become. Visual and physical exploration and the unique qualities of hand/foot holds found outdoors, relative to indoors, provided the most challenges to participants. Diverse experiences can help to improve this transfer. One outdoor climb impacts a climber’s perception of their own skill, thus impacting the extent of skills transfer. Climbing instructors should consider utilizing various tools to help better facilitate movement skills transfer for the “gym to crag” transition. Low light or blindfolds may help to teach or encourage physical exploration. Minor adjustments to climbing routes over time can diversify a climber’s experience. Utilizing existing evaluation instruments can help to further facilitate skills transfer to enhance desirable climbing movement.